I am admiring the resilience of Iowans in the face of these arctic temperatures. As I was checking caucus news yesterday, the Fox reporter showed a temperature of negative 8 degrees. The wind, or course, dictates it's colder: negative 34 degrees. For a brief moment, a cold chill ran across me as I can still vividly remember, as I hit the sack while stationed at Camp Casey, hoping for such temperatures. Crazy, you say. Perhaps; but if the wind chill fell to negative 20 degrees, or if it was raining, PT at 0515 hours would be cancelled. An extra hour in the sack - what a luxury. With that PT formation requiring the Daily Dozen exercises, followed by a two-mile run, time didn't allow me to grab breakfast in the mess hall. (I hated missing out on one of my favorite breakfast items, "S.O.S.". My father's S.O.S., incidentally, was the best. Loving this culinary item since I was a little boy, I have extensive experience with the various mess hall renditions devoured at Fort Reilly, Fort Benning, Fort Jackson as well as field deployments in France, Germany and the Republic of Korea.) In lieu of a big delicious breakfast, I hurriedly showered and ran the couple of miles or so to the dental clinic where I started seeing patients at 0800 hours. My rank wasn't sufficient to have a dedicated driver at my disposal and, delightfully, I was billeted in a Quonset hut at the MTF (medical treatment facility), where every other soldier was billeted. My duty station, the dental clinic, however, was 4 clicks away!
As if adding salt to my wound on a daily basis was the fact the Camp Casey Dental Clinic was staffed by four other dental officers who were attached to the Second ID clinic. Not assigned to the Division. As a consequence, they were not required in PT formations at 0515 hours Monday thru Friday (!). Further, they were in Yongsan one Wednesday a month for "training"; they didn't see patients. (I was later attached to the 10 Medical Detachment (DS), Yongsan, in order to get their dental staff up to speed for field deployment: the new DEFCON designation on the Korean Peninsula required significant increases in tactical dental teams.)
My living quarters in Yongsan were exponentially better than those provided by the Quonset hut. Best of all, no PT!
Attachment to the Tenth Medical Detachment provided a great perk: a BOQ with air conditioning and a wonderful Ajumma who did the four officers' laundry and cleaning. If desired, she would cook for us; she was an amazing cook. Her yaki mandu (pot stickers) were the first and the best I have ever eaten. She was delightful and, although she could not speak very much English, she would take time to teach me Hanguk-mal.
At Camp Casey there was not much off-duty time; the few places in TDC (Tongduchon), adjacent to the HQ of the combat arm of 8th Army and where the soldiers went, didn't require much knowledge of the Korean language. Yongsan Garrison, conversely, presented opportunities to appreciate the culture of quite an amazing country. This captain needed more commo skills...
The Republic of Korea SOFA terms (Status of Forces Agreement) dictated that we could only pay Ajumma $35 monthly, no more. I know that each of the four of us paid that small sum by check and, as a measure of how much we appreciated our "house mother", commissary purchases would find their way to Ajumma. She would tell us how excited her family was when she brought home something from the Yongsan commissary.
Ajumma's patience, coupled with AFKN's Korean phrases on TV, enabled me to, initially, get a beer and a favorite of Americans and Europeans, bulgogi. Ajumma made sure I didn't ask for kegogi which used dog meat instead of beef. Her continued work with me enabled a better ability to utter a few Korean phrases and, consequently, more enjoyment of what Korea had to offer, without being restricted to only-English-required enclaves such as Itaewon. One Saturday morning, I wanted to test my knowledge of Hanguk-mal in a part of Seoul that didn't speak Miguk-mal. I boarded a bus, crossed the Han River a couple of miles toward central Seoul and disembarked where 'nary an English word was being spoken.
Hanguk-mal, the Korean language, doesn't use inflections in the syllables and sentence consructs, as does the English language. In contrast to English (Miguk-mal), which also places emphasis on certain words or phrases, Koreans use a whole sentence or a combination of them with different inflections, mostly guttoral, that express an almost emotional value to whatever they are saying. Speaking with Ajumma for a few weeks enabled me to walk around, acquiring beverages, food and, most importantly, some dialog with Koreans. They appreciated my efforts in my struggle to gain fluidity in Hanguk-mal. My good friend, Al Kuhre, actually studied the written language, as well. He had a beautiful Korean girlfriend and wanted to impress her with a handwritten letter.
Ajumma, indicating she was pleased with my progress with the language, introduced me to a highly respected historian at Seoul University, Woo-keun Han , who had recently authored a History of Korea textbook. His daughter was studying there for a PhD in Biochemistry; the doctoral thesis must be in English. He asked if I would be able to provide her with assistance in the translation process. I indicated I would be delighted to do so as part of JUSMAG outreach operations. I thought simple grammar construction and syntax would be all that would be required of me.
Oh my, there was more difficulty than expected, as placement of a prepositional phrase, or improper antecedent agreement would distort the underlying biochemical meaning of the sentence or phrase. I quickly called my wife in Chattanooga and asked her to send my Biochem textbook, authored by Lubert Stryer. I needed some review, even with two semesters of Biochem at UTC and as a post graduate in Memphis behind me. Mission was accomplished. Thanks, God. That would have been embarrassing if one of the board members evaluating her thesis inquired if a sixth grader had written the English version...
Dr. Han asked if I would be able to help other Biochem PhD candidates in a similar fashion. After refreshing myself on the hydroxylation of proline and lysine as part of the production of ascorbic acid (vitamin C), necessary for collagen formation, and dozens of other common biochemical reactions in the body, the subsequent collaborations were much easier.
Unlike the United States, Koreans place high emphasis on the education of their children. High school students must not be out of their home on school nights after 1900 hours. LTC Blainey's secretary, whom I interviewed before her addition to our dental staffing, provided me with a unique insight to their culture. She shared with me her suspension from school for a few days because she was caught at a movie theater on a week night. Hye Chong was a brilliant young lady who spoke five languages and provided me with an immersion in Korean culture likely not experienced by other visitors to the Land of a Thousand Hills. An outdoor Korean wedding, replete with traditional Korean dress, music and, of course, tasty cuisine (I do like kimchi with my rice and bulgogi...) provides a wonderful afternoon, remembered forever. Korean weddings will always find two wooden ducks, a symbol of a monogamous relationship, as part of the ceremony; I brought back a pair for my mother and father.
The only formal affair I attended in Korea was a JUSMAG affair on Ambassador's Row. Since I would be dining with heads of state, dress blues were required. As an officer, I was well versed in this sort of protocol and wanted everything copasetic, a term often used by my father. No violation of that protocol. During dinner, I clearly remember having dialog with a Republic of Korea liaison military officer. I spoke English, while interjecting familiar Korean phrases, confident I was using them correctly. I came to rely on Hye Chong's help when navigating unfamiliar Korean territory; I asked her if she would accompany me to this annual event. Reserving only a spoon as my silverware, I eschewed the fork, as I had been taught how to use chopsticks by Ajumma. It always seemed the food tasted better when grasped with chopsticks; I had long passed those early learning sessions where I occasionally dropped chicken or a yaki mandu dumpling.
While speaking with the ROK liaison officer, I noticed he would have an amusing smile on his face, seemingly a non sequitur. He left the table for a few moments; I queried Hye Chong if I, perhaps, had been using my Korean incorrectly. A big grin spread across her face as she explained he was smiling at the grip I was using with the chopsticks. Apparently, in a culture with three different ways to say the same thing (close friends, normal social discourse and honorific for elders), there are two ways to grip the chopsticks: an elite and a commoner grip. I guess Ajumma was not in the elite class; she was gracious and an absolute delight in my life. I hope she is well.
I have not changed my chopstick technique, as it serves me well.
Courtesy Patrols:
As a captain with Second Infantry Division, there were those "other duties as assigned". As such, senior NCO's and commissioned officers were required for Courtesy Patrols. On a rotational basis, I would walk through the various eateries and clubs, especially where alcohol was served, with an arm band indicating I was a part of said patrol. Some of these soldiers were getting their first taste of a beer in over thirty days, as their DMZ rotations required. As a consequence, the rowdy factor is always present. Military discipline and the soldiers' respect for their chain of command, however, has a calming effect on most developing situations with a superior officer present.
Before DEI and the Demoncrat's destruction of our military, early symptoms of this malignancy was evident even way back in 1984. As a Courtesy Patrol officer, I was expecting the occasional fist fight between soldiers, an overt example of unacceptable behavior by the soldier. There were a few of those situations, but the overwhelming issue was the treatment accorded the Korean population by junior enlisted. The predominant offender was the young black male soldier. I cannot remember how many times I interceded in a profanity-filled tirade by a 20 year old in a verbal barrage of Korean civilians, young and old.
If the young soldier expressed genuine contrition to the offended party, I would provide a brief counselling session. That was extremely effective with the 2ID soldiers, as they were disciplined infantrymen.
In Yongsan, HQ for Eighth Army, it was a different story. No Courtesy Patrol there; the Military Police handled things.
As an off duty officer in Yongsan, Itaewon beckoned. I had my first Wendy's Frosty in months after deploying from Fort Rucker. Mmmmm...
Unlike TDC, where the embarrassing behavior exhibited by a few soldiers was limited to an audience who was used to that sort of outburst, Itaewon found a lot of incredulous tourists who had never witnessed such behavior. Extremely embarrassing for Eighth Army, the global audience in Itaewon, especially Europeans who coveted the relatively inexpensive furs offered in this shopping mecca for worldwide travellers, witnessed these foul-mouthed and disrespectful Americans first hand.
There were a number of occasions when I was able to enjoy Western food and entertainment (although bands that performed could only be Asian bands unless the United States operated the facility, e.g., the Seoul Garden Hotel.). I was thankful I was in civilian attire when a stupid American demonstrated this vile behavior. If I encountered behavior counter to what the UCMJ required demonstrated by a uniformed soldier, I would intervene and present my ID.
Again, unlike TDC, some of these young soldiers were unaware of appropriate protocol when engaged with a superior officer. There were a couple of situations that were resolved readily, as in TDC. Several others, in contrast, required the summoning of the MP's and subsequent incarceration in the stockade until final disposition could be accomplished. Most were separated from the Army.